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Belaying : ウィキペディア英語版
Belaying

Belaying refers to a variety of techniques climbers use to exert tension on a climbing rope so that a falling climber does not fall very far.〔(A Glossary of Climbing Terms )〕 A climbing partner typically applies tension at the other end of the rope whenever the climber is not moving, and removing the tension from the rope whenever the climber needs more rope to continue climbing.
The term "belay" also means the place where the belayer is anchored; this is typically a ledge, but may be a ''hanging belay'', where the belayer is suspended from protection in the rock.
== How belaying works ==

In a typical climbing situation, one end of the rope is fixed to the harness of the climber, using either a figure of eight loop, bowline, or double bowline knot. The rope then passes through climbing protection, which is fixed into the rock. Attachment to the rocks may be via bolts that are permanently fixed into the rock, or by traditional protection that the climber places and later removes without altering the rock.
The rope runs through the protection to a second person called the belayer. The belayer wears a harness that has a belay device attached. The rope threads through the belay device. By altering the position of the end of the rope, the belayer can vary the amount of tension on the rope. In one position, the rope runs freely through the belay device. In another position, it can easily be held without moving, because the tension on the rope is so great. This is called 'locking off' the rope.
If the climber climbs three feet higher than the last piece of protection in the rock, and then falls, the rope allows him to fall the three feet to the protection, and another three feet below that. If they fall any further, rope is pulled upwards through the protection from the belayer below. Because the belayer generally keeps the rope locked off, the climber's fall should be arrested and they are left suspended, but safe, somewhere below the protection.
A dynamic rope, which has some stretch in it, is often used so that the climber is not brought to a sudden jarring stop.
As the climber continues to ascend, they clip the rope into higher and higher metal loops fixed into the rock, so that in the event of a fall they don't fall further than the "unclipped" length of rope allows. While the task of belaying is typically assigned to a companion who stays at the bottom, self-belaying is also possible as an advanced technical climbing technique.
The person climbing is said to be on belay when one of these belaying methods is used. Belaying is a critical part of the climbing system. A correct belaying method lets the belayer hold the entire weight of the climber with relatively little force, and easily arrest even a long fall. By using a mixture of belaying angle and hand-grip on the rope, the belayer can gently lower a climber to a safe point where climbing can be resumed.

抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア(Wikipedia)
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