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Osmothèque
The Osmothèque (from Greek ''osmē'' "scent" patterned on French ''bibliothèque'' "library") is the world’s largest scent archive, a leading international research institution tracing the history of perfumery, based in Versailles with conference centers in New York City and Paris.〔 Luca Turin, and Tania Sanchez. ''The Little Book of Perfumes: The 100 Classics''. London: Profile, 2011. Print.〕〔Le Guérer, Annick. Le Parfum: Des Origines À Nos Jours. Paris: Odile Jacob, 2005. Print.〕 Founded in 1990 by Jean Kerléo and other senior perfumers including Jean-Claude Ellena and Guy Robert, the Osmothèque is internationally responsible for the authentication, registration, preservation, documentation and reproduction of thousands of perfumes gathered from the past two millennia, archived at the Osmothèque repository and consultable by the public.〔〔(Turin, Luca (August 2005), “The Perfume Museum”, Zürich: NZZ Folio )〕
Exclusive to the collection are countless rare masterpieces elsewhere discontinued or reformulated, including François Coty’s ''Chypre'' (Coty), Paul Parquet’s ''Fougère Royale'' (Houbigant) and Aimé Guerlain's ''Jicky'' (Guerlain) as well as numerous personalized fragrances worn by historical figures such as Elizabeth of Poland, Napoleon and Eugénie de Montijo.〔[Stamelman, Richard Howard., and Michael Freeman. Perfume: Joy, Obsession, Scandal, Sin : A Cultural History of Fragrance from 1750 to the Present. New York, NY: Rizzoli, 2006. Print.〕〔Rowe, David J. Chemistry and Technology of Flavours and Fragrances. Oxford: Blackwell, 2004. Print.〕 Since 2008, Patricia de Nicolaï has served as the institution’s president.〔Turin, Luca, and Tania Sanchez. Perfumes: The Guide. London: Viking Press, 2008. Print.〕
==History==
The founding of the world’s first international scent archive was initially proposed to the Société Française des Parfumeurs in 1976 by Jean Kerléo, then head perfumer at Jean Patou, in an effort to formally record and preserve the history of perfumery.〔Osmothèque. Paris: Comité français du parfum, 1990. Print〕 Kerléo envisioned reconstituting various discontinued classics according to their original formulae, working in collaboration with the world’s foremost perfumers and perfume houses.〔Dove, Roja. The Essence of Perfume. London: Black Dog, 2008. Print.〕 An advisory committee was thus assembled, composed of experts Jean-François Blayn, Raymond Chaillan, Jean-Claude Ellena, Yuri Gutsatz, Jeannine Mongin, Raymond Pouliquen, Guy Robert and Henri Sebag.〔Osmothèque. Paris: Comité français du parfum, 1990. Print〕
After successfully reproducing the discontinued perfumes of Jean Patou, Jean Kerléo and his team were entrusted in 1986 with the formulae of the defunct F. Millot, among them the 1925 classic ''Crêpe de Chine'' by Jean Desprez.〔Le Guérer, Annick., and Louarn Michel. Le. Si Le Parfum M'était Conté--. Paris: Garde-Temps, 2009. Print.〕 Kerléo’s reconstitution, completed a year later with perfumer Aimable Duhayon, impressed many within the industry, a major catalyst for the launch of the proposed scent archive. When in 1988 the project won the support of both the Chambre de Commerce et d’Industrie de Versailles and the Comité Français du Parfum, a repository facility was provided on the premises of the Institut Supérieur International du Parfum, de la Cosmétique et de l'Aromatique alimentaire.〔Le Guérer, Annick., and Louarn Michel. Le. Si Le Parfum M'était Conté--. Paris: Garde-Temps, 2009. Print.〕 There the Osmothèque was officially founded on 26 April 1990 with an initial collection of 400 perfumes, both those reproduced by the Osmothèque and those supplied by external perfumers at houses such as Chanel, Guerlain and Lanvin.〔Le Guérer, Annick., and Louarn Michel. Le. Si Le Parfum M'était Conté--. Paris: Garde-Temps, 2009. Print.〕〔(Stone, Susan (November 5, 2006), "Perfume Gallery Preserves, Re-Creates Fragrances", All things considered (National Public Radio) )〕
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