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focale
The ''focale'' (plural ''focalia''), also known as a ''sudarium'' ("sweat cloth"),〔Jason R. Abdal, ''Four Days in September: The Battle of Teutoburg'' (Trafford, 2013), p. 167.〕 was a woolen or linen scarf worn by ancient Roman military personnel. It protected the neck from chafing by the armor.〔Nic Fields, ''The Roman Army of the Principate 27 BC-AD 117'' (Osprey, 2009), p. 25.〕 The ''focale'' is depicted widely in military scenes from Roman art, such as the relief sculpture on the Arch of Septimius Severus in the Roman Forum〔Richard Brilliant, "The Arch of Septimius Severus in the Roman Forum," ''Memoirs of the American Academy'' 29 (1967), pp. 139, 142, 155, 156, 158, 184, 186, 190, 197, 203, 210.〕 and Trajan's Column.〔John Hungerford Pollen, ''A Description of the Trajan Column'' (London, 1874), p. 111.〕 It is shown loosely knotted in the front, but is sometimes visible with the ends tucked inside the cuirass,〔Abdal, ''Four Days in September,'' p. 167; Liza Cleland, Glenys Davies, and Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones, entry on "scarf," ''Greek and Roman Dress from A to Z'' (Routledge, 2007), p. 166.〕
In Latin literature, ''focale'' is a general word for a scarf or wrapping for the throat.〔Antoine Mongez, "Recherches sur les habillemens des anciens," ''Histoire et mémoires de l'Institute Royal de France'' 4 (1818), pp. 295–295.〕 A ''focale'' was one of the gifts that might be given for the December festival of Saturnalia, according to Martial.〔Martial 14.137 (142).〕 In one of his satires, Horace lists ''focalia'' among the "badges of illness" ''(insignia morbi)''.〔Horace, ''Satires'' 2.8.255; article on "Dress," ''A Concise Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities'', edited by F. Warre Cornish (London, 1898), p. 259.〕 In describing the correct attire for public speaking, Quintilian advises against wearing a ''focale'', unless required by poor health.〔Quintilian (11.3.144. ) Legwarmers ''(fascias quibus crura vestiuntur)'' and earmuffs ''(aurium ligamenta)'' are likewise to be avoided.〕
Although a ''sudarium'' often is used as a handkerchief, it can be worn like the ''focale'' as a neckerchief.〔Mongez, "Recherches sur les habillemens des anciens," p. 295.〕 When Suetonius describes the overly casual attire of Nero, the emperor is barefoot, unbelted, and dressed in evening wear ''(synthesis)'', with a ''sudarium'' around his neck.〔Suetonius, ''Nero'' 51; Mongez, "Recherches sur les habillemens des anciens," p. 295.〕 In late antiquity, ''orarium'' (Greek ''orarion'') might be synonymous with ''focale'', as in the description of military attire in the ''Vision of Dorotheus'', and in a papyrus (dated 350–450 AD) listing military clothes.〔''SB'' VI.9570.5; Jan Bremmer, "An Imperial Palace Guard in Heaven: The Date of the Vision of Dorotheus," ''Zeitschrift für Papyrologie und Epigraphik'' 75 (1988), p. 86.〕
The ''focale'' is sometimes seen as one of the precursors of the necktie.〔Daniel K. Hall, ''How to Tie a Tie: Choosing, Coordinating, and Knotting Your Neckwear'' (Sterling, 2008), p. 8.〕 Cesare Vecellio (1530–1606) mentions the ''focale'', calling it a ''cravata'' (cravat), as worn by Roman soldiers in his book on the history of fashion.〔Oscar Lenius, ''The Well-Dressed Gentleman'' (LIT Verlag Münster, 2010), p. 93.〕 It has been compared to the ''amice'' ''(amictus)'' worn by Roman Catholic priests, which is depicted from the 6th century onward, as in the Ravenna mosaics.〔Charles Panati, ''Sacred Origins of Profound Things'' (Arkana, 1996), (n.p. ); Mongez, "Recherches sur les habillemens des anciens," p. 296.〕
==References==
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