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fustanella
Fustanella (for spelling in various languages, see chart below) is a traditional skirt-like garment worn by men of many nations in the Balkans (Southeast Europe). In modern times, the fustanella is part of Balkan folk dresses. In Greece, a short version of the fustanella is worn by ceremonial military units like the Evzones, while in Albania it was worn by the Royal Guard in the interbellum era. ==Origins==
Some scholars state that the fustanella was derived from a series of classical Greek garments such as the chiton (or tunic) and the chitonium (or short military tunic).〔: "From the ancient ''chiton'' and the common ''chitonium'' (short military tunic), fastened by a belt round the waist and falling into narrow regular folds, is derived the ''fustanella'' which by extension gives its name to the whole of the costume."〕〔: "The young shepherd wears a fustanella, descendant of the military tunic of ancient Greece, now rarely worn except by certain regiments."〕〔 Although the pleated skirt has been linked to an ancient statue (3rd century BC) located in the area around the Acropolis in Athens, there are no surviving ancient Greek clothings that can confirm this connection.〔.〕 The Roman toga may have also influenced the evolution of the fustanella based on statues of Roman emperors wearing knee-length pleated skirts (in colder regions, more folds were added to provide greater warmth).〔.〕 Folklorist Ioanna Papantoniou considers the Celtic kilt, as viewed by the Roman legions, to have served as a prototype.〔 Sir Arthur Evans considered the fustanella of the female peasants (worn over and above the Slavonic apron) living near the modern Bosnian-Montenegrin borders as a preserved Illyrian element among the local Slavic-speaking populations.〔.〕 In the Byzantine Empire, a pleated skirt known as the ''podea'' (Greek: ποδέα) was worn.〔.〕〔: "While 35 plates have the warrior wearing the ''podea'' or pleated skirt (sometimes called a fustanella) attributed to Manuel I, the "new Akrites," in a Ptochoprodromic poem, and 26 have him slaying a dragon, neither iconographic element is sufficient to identify the hero specifically as Digenes because both the skirt and the deed characterize other ''akritai'' named in the Akritic Songs."〕 The wearer of the podea was either associated with a typical hero or an Akritic warrior and can be found in 12th-century finds attributed to Emperor Manuel I Komnenos (r. 1143–1180).〔 On Byzantine pottery sherds, warriors are shown bearing weapons and wearing the heavy pleated fustanella, including a mace-bearer clad in chain-mail.〔.〕 In his ''Lexicon of Medieval Latin'', Charles du Fresne suggests that ''fustanum'' (a piece of cloth) originates from the Roman ''palla''.〔.〕 Cotton ''fustana'' was among the belongings of Pope Urban V (1310–1370).〔(Bulletin Archéologique du Comité des Travaux Historiques et Scientifiques, p. 284 ): L'Inventaire d'Urbain V (1310-1370), en 1369, enregistre "unum matalacium de fustana alba, cotonno munitum".〕
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