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geringsing
Geringsing is a textile created by the double ikat method in the Bali Aga village of Tenganan Pegeringsingan in Bali. The demanding technique is only practiced in parts of India, Japan and Indonesia. In Indonesia it is confined to the village of Tenganan. According to textile expert John Guy, "the ancestry of Balinese ''geringsing'' is far from clear, although some cloths display the unmistakable influence of ''patola''",〔Guy, John, ''Indian Textiles in the East'', Thames & Hudson, 2009, p. 13〕 the silk double ikats produced in Gujarat during the height of the Spice Trade (16-17C). Many of these imported cloths became the inspiration for later locally-made textiles, but one theory is that the Balinese-made cloths were exported to India and copied there for production to Asian markets. Many have unique Hindu motifs such as a bird's eye view of a mandala with a sacred center from which everything radiates. Others feature designs clearly inspired by ''patola'', for example a design known as the frangipani flower (''cempaka'').〔Guy, p. 96.〕 The palette of ''geringsing'' is typically red, neutral, and black. ''Geringsing'' are regarded as sacred cloths, "ascribed supernatural properties, especially to assist in forms of healing, including exorcism."〔Guy, p. 96.〕 ''Gering'' means decease and ''sing'' means no. ==History== The people of Tenganan Pegeringsin are said to come from the pre-Majapahit Bali kingdom of Pejeng, pre-dating the occupation of Bali by the Hindu Javanese who arrived at the end of the Majapahit era (15th century). There is a legend that they were bequeathed their land by the king who said that they could have as much land as a man and horse could ride around in a day. The horseman chosen had a magical horse and he encircled a vast tract of land which the king was obliged to grant him. Geringsing is mentioned in the poem ''Rangga Lawe'' which tells of the first Majapahit king, Raden Wijaya giving his warriors gerinsing sashes to protect them in Battle. A later mention is in the poem Nagarakrtagama by the Buddhist sage Prapancana, composed in 1365 who describes curtains of the king Hayam Wuruk's carriage as being made of Geringsing. The first European to describe geringseng was W.O.J Nieuwenkamp in 1906 He found 2 cloths in a box of textiles that he bought in Tabanan for the Ethnographic Museum in Leiden. After this he discovered where they came from and made a journey to Tenganan.
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