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kaunakes : ウィキペディア英語版
kaunakes

The kaunakes, from Greek "thick cloak", also known as ''persis'' was a woolen skirt or cloak woven, worn during the Sumerian civilization around 2500 BC, in a tufted pattern suggesting overlapping petals or feathers, either by sewing tufts onto the garment or by weaving loops into the fabric.
==History==
The origin of this dress is traced to the Sumerian civilization which existed even before 4000 BC. The period between 2700 and 2350 BC of this civilization was marked by high culture. The dress was a unisex garment which both men and women wore. The skirt was made from sheepskin and was worn with the skin turned inside and with tufts ornamented like a comb over the wool. It was used in the form of a wraparound skirt tied and worn from the waist extending to the knees; in the case of persons of high status the skirt extended down to the ankles. The upper part of the body was either covered with another cloak spread across the shoulders, made of sheepskin or left bare. It was only around 2,500 BC that the sheepskin garment was replaced by a textile made of woven wool; however the tuft part of the dress was continued in the form of "sewing tufts onto the garment or by weaving loops into the fabric". The Greeks called this dress kaunakes. This type of dress is featured in sculptures and mosaics of this period; the archaeological excavations at Ur revealed this dress, which is now an exhibit in the British Museum in London.
In a Sumerian image dated between 2,900-2,600 BC, the dress was worn as a pagne, which was a simple fleece pelt used as body wrap but retaining the tail part. In some images the wraparound covered the body crossed over the left shoulder. Following the discovery of weaving kaunakes were designed with tufts of wool stitched into the cloth to "simulate the curling fleece fur". It was a rustic fabric made of sheepskin, camel or goat's hide fashioned in the form of a shawl or skirts called the "thick blanket" that evolved to suit the severe weather conditions of the Sumerian and Akkadian Mesopotamian region.
It is also believed that kaunakes as a fashioned fleece did not find mention prior to 300 BC but could be traced to the 400-300 BC. During the Greek period of Aristophanes the garment was made from goat’s hair or wool in the style of a weighty mantle or cape. Also stated is that it was the Celtic Egypt that designed the "tapestry weaves" with projecting long locks or strands of wool and not in Mesopotamia. Its manufacture evolved as kaunakes by copying the design of the original fleece and fur and shaping it as a mantle. These were worn during the winter season as shawl over the shoulders, and during summer it was adapted as a skirt. Over the centuries many designs evolved with sleeves, then variants were made made with cloth instead of fleece, and eventually, it evolved back to a cape sans sleeves.
In Athens, initially the dress was thought to be of Persian] origin but later it came to be identified as a Babylonian garment, as it matched with the textile practices of the northeast from Mesapotamia. Part of the confusion arose from the naming of the garment, because the root word is linguistically closer to Iranian language, rather than Babylonian language. The dress was also used by a stage actor in a drama scene of the Aeistophanes' ''Wasps'' in Athens, as the design of the exotic dress suited the dramatic effect in view of it being "visually distinctive", heavy and with small decorative tufts. It was the Athenians belief that the kaunakes was of Persian origin and not from Babylon from an understanding that the dress was an exported item and could have originated from Anatolia (Kilikia or Phrygia), the Levant (Phoenicia or Syria), or Mesopotamia (Babylon), which were all part of the Persian Empire in the fifth century BC.
A Getty image dated to 3,000 BC from the Temple of Ishtar at Mari, Tell Hariri in Syria shows kaunakes wrapped as a cloak around the shoulders of an alabaster image of a woman in a seated posture; the kaunakes is inferred as made from goat hair or wool. From 2,450 BC it was a royal dress as seen from the figures in prayer mode in Mesopotamia. In this, the dress was formed with woolly tufts laid successively in horizontal lines and suspended vertically. It was fashioned generally as a woman's dress adorning the left arm and shoulder with the right side exposing the skin and the breast.

抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア(Wikipedia)
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